ATHLONE
Our first stop was a small town called Athlone, which we picked because it was near the Clonmacnoise Ruins. (See Allan's blog on the History of Ireland, or more pictures on our Picasa website, http://picasaweb.google.com/399days/ where most images have been labeled.) Our B&B was a small, funky place called Bastion. It was a creative space, all painted white with unusual art pieces giving it a "shabby chic" feel. We ate dinner at a Thai restaurant across the street, which we were told was considered the best Thai in Ireland. We had to admit that it was pretty excellent...but also pretty expensive! We were discovering that eating out in Ireland would cost 50-100% more than we're used to paying in Portland. Ouch! Our little dinner of Thai food costs $60 US, and we even had the early bird special.
At breakfast the next morning, we were talking to our host, Blanka, about the economy in Ireland. Blanka is from Czech Republic and has lived in Ireland for 1 1/2 years. She said she loves living in Ireland because she can make enough money to live well, and even create a savings. In Czech Republic, she would work and not be able to pay her bills. However, she also told us that since December, six of the pubs in town had closed--and this was a small town. So while it still may be good times for some, it's not-so-good for others...
LIMERICK
From Athlone, we headed to Limerick, and ended up renting a hotel called Patricks Punch--it was half the cost of any B&B we inquired about. Considering that Ireland is far more expensive than any other place we've been so far, we had to make some compromises...and a few nights in a hotel afforded us a financial break, as well as a bit of anonymity. We were able to sleep in one bed, and the hotel staff couldn't have been less interested! Speaking of the hotel staff, the young man at the reception desk, Andy, was one of the sweetest, most accommodating employees I have ever encountered--so eager and happy to make everything perfect for us. When I told him how impressed I was, he shrugged and said, "I'm just doing my job." Oh, if only all of us could have such an attitude! We ate at a very charming cafe, The Sage Cafe, enjoying cheese and veggie tartlettes--a common dish in Ireland for vegetarians.
In honor of staying in Limerick, I thought I'd try my hand at one:
In Ireland we rented a car
Saw ruins and fields near and far
We slept in a castle
Ate quiche without hassle
And drank Guinness from a chocolate bar
(The gal at the Tourist Information Center who sold me the Guinness Chocolate Bar said, "They'll put Guinness in anything!")We stayed two nights in Limerick so that we could drive through The Burren and also stop to view the Cliffs of Moher. (See Allan's blog post on Ireland's Landscape, and more pictures can be viewed on Picasa.) We stopped in a small town called Ballyvaughan for lunch, and amazingly enough found a tiny cafe run by two older women--and one of them was a vegetarian! Here's a shot of the cafe, but take note of the overwhelming and somewhat confusing list of road signs to the left.
While Allan is the designated driver on this road trip, I am the navigator. Unfortunately, what appears on the map I'm holding in my lap often does not correlate with what the signs indicate--nowhere will we find the name of the next town posted, or worse, the sign has been bent, and now points the wrong way. But it's not just the signs...I also have a tendency to get lost in the landscape and miss a few signs, or simply fall asleep. Fortunately, Allan's Human Navigation System got us out of any predicaments my navigation (and Ireland's signage system) got us into, and we only had to turn around a few times. But I do have advice for couples planning a road trip: If you want your relationship to be blissful as you see the landscape, do not go on a road trip through Ireland. 'Nuff said. :)BANTRY
We left Limerick and continued to head south, stopping in Mallow to do laundry. When we stopped, Allan noticed that we had a near-flat tire, so we drove to the nearest service station, which was closed for lunch. But it all worked out in the end: we did our laundry while the tire was repaired, ate our lunch, and were back on the road in no time! As you can see in this picture, it's not all glamour and Ashford Castle....
Our next stop would be at a B&B called Hagel Healing Farms near Bantry--a great southwest coastal town that even has an organic, vegetarian cafe! (But the hosts at Hagel offered to cook us 3-course organic vegetarian dinners at a reasonable cost, so we didn't even need the cafe.) In addition to being a B&B, Hagal also functions as the areas "New Age Mecca": It's a retreat center that provides guests with options of massages (you can also take a class in massage), detox programs, saunas, a labyrinth, and a meditation room. You can pick up about any type of crystal or gemstone, and some hippie clothing as well. I felt right at home.The walk up to the house was through a pathway of overgrown vegetation. Flowering bushes of every kind were vying for space, and I had to crouch down in order to avoid being snagged by meandering rose vines that created a canopy overhead. Our rooms were simple and homey, much like you'd find at a family cabin. There was a small guest kitchen we could use, and upstairs--which was reached by climbing the spiral staircase that was build around a tree trunk--there was a common room where one could read or meditate. The room had a wall of windows that looked out over the valley of green pastures...Heaven.
Everything about this place made you want to brew some tea, curl up on the sofa, and soak in the relaxing vibe created here. So Allan and I discarded all of the plans we had made, and spent the next three days doing very little. Besides, it rained most every day--not really the best weather for sight seeing. I enjoyed my morning meditations upstairs, and in the afternoon I would read, nap, or write in my journal. There was a deck of "Spiritual Insight Cards" on the shelf, and so I blind picked one to contemplate during my stay, which just happened to be something I had been focusing on:I rise above preference and rejection, and take things as they come.
The owners, Fred and his wife Janny, are originally from Holland, but have lived in Ireland at Hagal Farms for 30 years--yet they are still considered "Blow In's" by the locals. Fred says he prefers to be a blow in because it allows him to do what he wants. If the community doesn't understand, they shrug and say, "Figures. He's a blow in!" But if you're a native and do something the locals don't understand, it can cause a ruckus! At dinner time, Fred would ring a gong to tell us it was ready. Dinner was served in a glass-enclosed conservatory room, with a huge grape vine growing inside. Bunches of red grapes hung from the ceiling, and I had to dodge them as I meandered my way to the dining table. Unfortunately, they were not yet ripe, so I had to resist every temptation to pick and eat them. Our dinners at Hagal were exceptionally delicious: perfectly seasoned fresh vegetables, amazing salad/appetizer combinations, a savory homemade burger one night, beet & sesame tofu another, and one night an apple crisp that was heavenly flavored with bits of other fruits and Chinese 5 Spice. (I had to ask, because I just couldn't figure out the flavor. Loved it!) Fred makes everything himself, and has such a sweet and nurturing nature, I felt like he was a grandmother in disguise.
After dinner, he would serve a fresh pot of tea made out of herbs and flowers from his garden. One night it was a mix of apple mint, meadow sweet, fennel, lemon, cardamom pod, strawberries, and St. John's Wart. Beautiful to look at and exquisite to drink! (This picture is of another pot he brewed with a wild rose in it.)
The only other guest was an Irish man named Patrick, who was probably a bit younger than we were, with a plump build and a jolly face with expressive pale blue eyes. He was here from Cork, enjoying a two day retreat. It was his second visit to Hagal Farm, a respite from his city life of fast food and tension. Over dinner, Allan and I grilled him with questions, asking him about how the financial crisis has affected Ireland, and wanting to understand how the average Irish person affords to eat out or socialize. One interesting thing he told us was that the pub culture of Ireland has changed over the past few years. Drinking and driving laws and no smoking laws have made people fearful of going to the pub, so now they drink and smoke at home. This has weakened the sense of community and shut down pubs, which in turn affects many of the other businesses. Driving through most towns, we see a lot of store fronts for rent. I really enjoyed talking to Patrick, and it was great to learn a few more things about Ireland from a local perspective. (We also learned a few things about marketing--he had never heard of Irish Spring soap, or Lucky Charms cereal! Totally an American invention!) When we told him how much we loved the clouds in Ireland, he looked at us rather puzzled, like, they're clouds. But after we talked about their uniqueness for a bit, as well as all the green pastures and rocky cliffs of Ireland, he mentioned how easy it is to forget how beautiful something is when one sees it everyday...Leaving one day to go for a leisure drive, we were slowed down a bit by a traffic jam:
CORKWe left the sweet bliss of Hagal, and drove to Kilarney. I have always been curious about Kilarney because of a song Bing Crosby sang that I listened to during the holidays when I was a kid: "Christmas in Kilarney." Kilarney is sort of a resort town, and I really enjoyed wandering the streets, looking at all the cute shops and cafes. Allan and I ate lunch at a great place called Jam, where they served a delicious quiche--yes, quiche again! (It's the official vegetarian item on most menus in Ireland!) After lunch we toured the Muckross House, a gorgeous restored home that is now owned by the city. It is situated on 11,000 acres of park land. Magnificent!
From Kilarney, we headed to Cork, the 4th largest city in Ireland. Allan found a great deal at the Best Western Ambassador Hotel--yes, Best Western. They are a bit different outside of the US, and this was a marvelously restored hotel, originally a hospital. It was situated on the northern hill that overlooked Cork. The staircase to our room was grand, with huge balustrades and spacious landings. The rooms were quite large, with high ceilings and 8 foot high windows. They also served a wide variety of foods for breakfast--it was really perfect in every way. And I had a wonderful time working out in the fitness room, and later relaxing in the sauna. Oh, the stress of all this travel!
The city of Cork had an older feel to it, not so quaint and tidy as the smaller towns we have visited. But they had an excellent health food store (which surprisingly, most larger towns in Ireland have), and two vegetarian restaurants. On a day when Allan and I went off to do our own thing, I was walking down a shopping street when a woman approached me with her two daughters, probably age 2 and 8, and asked if I would buy her younger daughter something to eat...I've gotten used to saying no when people ask me for money--which is often a daily experience in every country we've visited except maybe Japan. But this was the first time that someone asked me to feed their child. I went into the nearest sandwich shop, and the women told her 8 year old to go with me and pick something out for her and her sister. While we waited to order, I asked this shy 8 year old what her name was. "Alicia," she said. Then I asked where she was from, and she gave me a lost, confused look, and finally shrugged and said "Nowhere." "But you're from Ireland?" I asked. "England," she replied. Alicia was cleanly dressed, and didn't appear to be homeless...but the embarrassed look in her eyes, the way she avoided eye contact with me...it was clear that all was not fun and games for this young girl. Yet she did automatically pick out two bottles of soda pop and a candy bar for me to also buy (I said no to those), so who knows what the real story is? I kept wishing that the mother had approached someone else, that I didn't have to witness someone elses misfortune. It was making me feel so guilty for my life...staying in castles, traveling around the world...like I shouldn't enjoy my life as long as someone else is suffering. When the food was ready, Alicia took it and headed back to her mother, who hollered 'thank you' to me as I walked away. For the next hour, it was challenging for me to get them off my mind. What was their story? Why did she approach me? Why do people suffer? Why do I feel guilty about it? I thought of my Spiritual Insight card from Hagal Healing Farms: "Rise above preference and rejection, and take things as they come". I had to accept that this experience was perfect, but also that my life was perfect...yet it is always good to be reminded that not everyone is as fortunate as I am. Not everyone has the options I do. This helped me become more present, more grateful, and in time I let it go. Realistically, I can't really do much about this family on the streets of Cork, except maybe buy them some food. Perhaps that's all I was meant to do...
I sat in the public square, listening to a band play music. Clouds were gathering above me in the most spectacular way, and I took several pictures of them with my iPhone:
I walked to the Art Museum, then over to the Butter Museum--yes, Cork is famous for butter, and I just had to see for myself if there was actually a museum about it. Yep....I went to a local coffee shop to read and watch the people pass by, and sipped on a lovely latte, topped with "latte art", one of my most favorite things in the world. The barista told me that the owner of the shop was from Seattle, and that is why they do the latte art, and roast their own beans, which made the coffee aroma permeate the shop in the most intoxicating way. It was a divine "moment in time" sitting there.Later that night, I met Allan for dinner at a gourmet vegetarian restaurant called Cafe Paradisio. The food was gorgeous and delicious, such a treat to behold and enjoy.
Allan and I walked back to our hotel, and I felt so grateful and happy to be here, on this journey with him, walking the streets of Cork. When we spend the day apart, it makes it more special when we get together, and I wondered if all couples enjoy this mix of "alone time", and "together time". It allows us space to reconnect with ourselves, and later we can share the independent experiences we had, learning about one another in a unique and different way. I read somewhere that this time apart is the secret to a healthy relationship, and I would totally agree.KILKENNY
We left Cork in the morning, and headed to the coastal town of Youghal, most famous for being where Moby Dick was filmed. We were meeting Marybelle, Allan's friend from Shanghai that we had visited when we were in China. Her husband Joe is from Youghal, and they spend their summers here. It was a beautiful sunny day, perfect to sit outside at the town pub and drink a cappuccino. It was good to see Marybelle and Joe again--such sweet and engaging people. As we departed, Joe gave us a scenic route to take to Kilkenny, which winded through a canyon called The Vee. Here's a shot of the beautiful lookout:
Along the way, we stopped in Lismore to have lunch, and noticed that there would be a lecture on Augustus Pugin at the Lismore Castle in the Gothic banquet room that Pugin designed in the 18th century. Allan is a great fan of Pugin's, and on this trip he has been reading a biography about him called God's Architect. However, the lecture was the following night, and we were set to stay at a B&B in Wexford, 2 1/2 hours away. So after a few phone calls, we worked it out to return to Lismore the following day, and spend the night so that Allan could attend this lecture.We continued on to Kilkenny, nearly getting lost in the intricate maze of small country roads that are poorly marked both on the map we had, and especially on the roads we traveled. (At this point, Allan contemplated trading me in for a GPS system. It would be more reliable, and doesn't eat.) But eventually we made it to Kilkenny, relationship intact, and I went to the nearest pub to ease my nerves from navigation tension by eating a pound of Guinness Chocolate. The owners of the pub liked me so much, they named the place after me...
There was even a night of entertainment, encouraging me to move to Ireland:
But alas, I bid them farewell, and we moved on....In Kilkenny, we spent the night in a Days Hotel, which is the same "brand" as Days Inn in the US. It was a great hotel at an excellent price. We toured the Kilkenny Castle, which had been recently restored.
They had also converted the carriage house into a beautiful Design Center, complete with a lovely cafe and B&B. Unfortunately, it was rainy and blistery, so we did not loiter in Kilkenny. We got on the road and headed back to Lismore.LISMORE
On the way back to Lismore, we stopped to see the Ormande Castle, which was restored about 20 years ago, and is a fine example of an Elizabethan manor house. The surrounding town didn't offer much for lunch, so we went to the next town, Clonmel, and found a nice little deli cafe for soup and sandwiches. (Nearly every soup in Ireland is vegetarian, so that is always a safe standby.) We arrived in Lismore in the early evening, enough time for Allan to relax and have a cup of coffee before heading to the lecture. I stayed back at Pine Tree B&B,--our first "homestyle" B&B, which is much like staying with relatives that you don't really know that well.
You're in their home, probably sleeping in their grown son's old bedroom, and you eat at their dining table. While I'm glad we had the chance to experience this "true" B&B, I prefer the distance of a hotel or a larger, more commercial B&B like Coxtown. Allan really enjoyed the Pugin lecture, which he may blog about in the future.WEXFORD
We had a nice drive to Wexford, which is located in the southeast corner of Ireland. As we neared our destination, the clouds thinned, the sun came out, and by the time we arrived it was downright warm! We checked in to the Rosemount B&B, a great Georgian townhouse built in 1803. It was decorated with wonderful antiques, and because we requested twin beds, we got probably the nicest, largest room they offered--at the same price. Allan and I joked about how I always get the small twin bed--(you may have read his blog about it). I had fun posing for the downtrodden picture, but really, I would be happy sleeping on the floor! How could I not? I'm in Ireland!
We headed outside, walking to town, and ate at a wonderful Italian restaurant that was packed with people. Once we tasted the food, we could see why. It was amazingly authentic, and later the owner/chef emerged--totally Italian! It was shocking to eat a meal outside in the sun, not wearing a coat or anything. Ireland actually can be warm and sunny!
We walked through the rest of the town, along a fantastic pedestrian-only street. It was very crowded because Ireland was celebrating a three day "bank holiday" that weekend, so many people were on vacation, and Wexford is a popular spot to visit--it's only a 2 hour drive from Dublin.On Sunday, most stores were closed, but we still walked through town and happened upon an Arts Festival that was taking place. In Ireland, an "Arts Festival" is really a music festival, and a list of musicians were set to perform, so we ordered a savory crepe for lunch from a food vendor there, and listened to several vocalists and bands from Ireland play their stuff. It was a fun, unexpected pleasure, and a great way to spend our afternoon in Wexford.
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The next morning we headed to Dublin, which Allan or I will write about later...but to recap our travels around Ireland, it was the smaller, more quaint and charming towns we enjoyed most. 
Ireland is actually a collection of small towns, and to really see all there is, one would need to spend several months. There were many times I would have liked to have stayed a bit longer in some of the small towns we just drove through, but our schedule was such that we had to keep moving. And if I had to pick a favorite...maybe it would be Wexford, or Bantry. Perhaps Galway...or Donegal. So many! And inbetween each great town is the spectacular scenery--one of the most beautiful landscapes I have ever seen. Click on the map to the left to enlarge, and you'll see the territory we covered, our path marked in green. The orange dots indicate places we spent the night. (The thick yellow line is the border between The Republic of Ireland, and Northern Ireland.) Our trip included 3020 kilometers (1876 miles), 5 tanks of gas, 1 flat tire, and 2 near divorces. It was a long journey, but one I will have fond memories of. (Well, maybe not of the near divorces!) The people here are so very kind, and "blow in" tourist or not, I always felt very welcome here.
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