Budapest's history is unfortunate, and it was hard not to feel a bit sad about the last 100 years, especially the years of Soviet Occupation. But Hungarians are a proud people, and they will get through this transition like they have gotten through all past transitions, and will emerge as the prestigious city it was always destined to be. One visit to Millennium Square, and you can tell how impressive this city was in the early 1900's.
There is a lot going on here. Upon arrival, we were given a complimentary issue of Time Out Budapest, which lists all the events happening over the next month. There was a Wine Festival, a Jazz Festival, a Baroque Festival, a "Free Museum Weekend" where most all religious buildings that are usually closed to tourists were open, plus a Film Festival....and more. We had just missed their Gay Pride Parade by a few days, and it appears that gay rights are making headway in Budapest. (Unfortunately, the parade has been met with violent protesters in the past where several gays have been injured, so security this year was increased. Again I am reminded how easy we have it in America, even if it isn't all I'd like it to be...) Plus there are all the Turkish Baths to check out. We went to two of them, and it was very relaxing to soak in the natural hot spring water. Here's Allan at the entrance to the Gellert Baths:
We hadn't been to a movie since our stay in Australia, so we decided to take advantage of the film festival. For four days, all theaters lowered their admission price to 500 forints, which is about $2.50. We saw Two Lovers starring Gwyneth Paltrow and Joaquin Phoenix (good movie but we both felt tense the entire time--strange for a movie that wasn't a thriller, no one got shot or killed, and overall it was a love story!), the latest Harry Potter, and The Four Lives of Pippa Lee, starring Robin Wright Penn and Keanu Reeves. It was a good movie that prompted a lively conversation between Allan and I about love, relationships, and all that stuff. What we loved about movie theaters here is that seats are assigned! So we were able to buy tickets in advance, pick our seats, and then show up right before the movie started. Some people even wait in the lobby sipping a cappuccino while the previews play, and get to their seat when the movie starts. Nice! Even when movies are full price, they are still quite reasonable--$7.50 to see a movie, and $4.50 on Wednesdays. Love that!We took in a few museums, including the National Gallery, and the National Museum.
We enjoyed both, and I must note that we really liked the work of Hungarian artist Munkacsy Mihaly. His technique and choice of tone and color were wonderful.
We also toured the Applied Arts Museum, and several of the cathedrals and churches in town. Speaking of the Applied Arts Museum, poor Allan is usually having to explain design elements to me, like what "Applied Arts" even means. He has also had to educate me on what Art Nouveau is (it's big here in Budapest), what Gothic Architecture is (his personal passion), and all things related to design. I did not get that "gay gene" that automatically gives you all of this knowledge. Up until a few years ago, I couldn't tell you what a Tudor home was in comparison to a craftsman bungalow. I still don't have an expert eye, but at least I'm learning the terminology! I can now recognize a pedestal sink, a "built-in", and sometimes I can even determine what is "eclectic" or just plain tacky when it comes to furniture. (Except for my own, unfortunately.) Soon I might be able to mix and mingle with any gay man and feel like I can hold my own when the subject turns to interior design elements!
And as for other gay genes, I did get the one that makes you love Barbra Streisand. Her new CD, Love is the Answer came out while we were in Budapest, and just the other day I got an email from her (it really does say Barbra Streisand in the sender box) saying her CD came out at #1, making her the only artist to have a #1 album in 5 consecutive decades. Go Babs! She's made over 60 records, and, well, all I can say is that I still love her after all these years--33 in fact, since I became a fan when I went to see A Star is Born and couldn't take my eyes off of her. We won't be able to listen to Love is the Answer until we return in March (it's waiting for us at home--I preordered it), so if you buy it, let me know how it is. Like butter, I'm sure! (And I must say, she's looking pretty fine at 67.)Back to Budapest....
Speaking of music, we attended a concert in the St. Stephens Basilica,
which was quite a special experience. It's a beautiful building, perfectly maintained, and the classical pieces, such as Ava Maria, sounded wonderful.
And one of my favorite places in Budapest was the Liberation Monument on Gellert Hill. It stands, towering over the entire city, as a statement of freedom and peace.
It was originally erecteded in 1947 to celebrate the liberation of Hungary from Nazi forces in World War II.
It was also really great to tour the inside of the Parliament Building, the most commanding structure in Budapest. Amazing!
It's always nice to take a day trip outside of the city we are based in, and we ended up taking two day trips outside of Budapest. First we went to Szentendre, which is an "artist town" about 40 minutes north of Budapest by train. We wandered the cobblestone streets--along with a fair amount of tourists--looking at all the art, and enjoying a stroll by the Danube.
Several days later we went to Esztergom, the original capitol of Hungary. We spent most of the day wandering the streets, and walked through the "Primatial Basilica of the Blessed Virgin Mary Assumed Into Heaven and St. Adalbert" (I'm serious, that is the name), which is the best preserved Renaissance building in Hungary, and also the tallest.
Later we sipped coffee and enjoyed a Hungarian dessert near the town center before heading home on the train. It was great to see a more quiet and quaint aspect of Hungarian life.
Another aspect of Hungarian life I found interesting is their comfort with Public Displays of Affection, and I would safely say that at least once a day I saw couples making out in a variety of places; the park, the bus, the sidewalk, the mall...it just didn't matter. When the feeling strikes, they seize the moment and suck face for everyone to see! I'm not sure how it would have gone over if Allan and I had tried to embrace this cultural phenomenon, but for straight Hungarians, it's no big deal. After awhile I got used to it, and wondered why it's so looked down on in America. It's better than couples arguing in public...or worse, one talking, texting, or emailing on their cell phone while the other stares off into the distance! (Allan interrupts me here to say something about my precious iPhone. Oops. Time to go make out....) Far more "offensive" than PDA's in Budapest is the overwhelming number of smokers. I don't think I have seen so many smokers anywhere else in the world. Smoking and Making Out just don't go together in my book, so if I have a wish for Hungarians, it is this: Stop Smoking and Kiss More. And if you're going to smoke, at least put your butt in the trash. Budapest is littered with butts, and I don't mean the cute kind. Graffiti is also a big problem...check out this entrance to Margit Island. I called it the entrance to Graffiti Hell...
We had a lovely month with spectacular weather--a true Indian Summer, with temperatures staying in the pleasant high 70's nearly every day. After 8 weeks of being on the road in Ireland and Scandinavia (often with cold, wet temperatures), it was so nice to have a warm place to kick back and relax in for an entire month. The apartment was spacious and sunny, and by the end of the trip, I actually felt like I lived there. I was even able to finally finish reading Alain de Botton's book, The Art of Travel. Of course, he had something to say that was perfectly timed for my stay in Budapest. As I walked the streets, reminiscing about my last visit here when I was 23, I experienced a certain level of nostalgia...Here's what Alain had to say about revisiting moments of our past: "(I thought of) the differences between my life then and now, which led to a bittersweet sadness for difficulties that had beset me then and precious things that had since been lost." (Isn't that beautifully said?!) There were the difficulties of trying to figure out what I was going to be in life, wrestling with my sexuality, and the insecurities that held me back from so many things...And as for precious things lost, I thought of my youth, creativity, optimism, and sweet friendships that I assumed would always be with me. It was good to ponder this in Budapest, and sort some of that out.I also read The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Society, which is an awfully long title for a book that at first appeared to be fluffy chick-lit, with a wry and dry sense of English humor...but ended up being a testament to the devastation of war, and the importance of living with integrity, love, and sacrifice. Budapest has been devastated by several wars, and this book so eloquently spoke to what goes on after the war is "won"...or lost...and made me think of all we could accomplish with the time, energy, and money that ultimately is wasted on stupid men and their lust for power.
Before I close the chapter on Budapest, I must give a shout out to Reka, one of the managers at OHSU where I worked. She is from Budapest (which she corrected me by pronouncing it Budapesht), and I thought of her a lot while I was here. Unfortunately, I didn't get the chance to talk to her much about her home country before I came here, but I hope to chat with her when I return. It was harder to keep in touch with everyone while here because we didn't have a designated Internet connection. But once again we were taken care of by way of a "free" wireless connection most every day (best accessed from our balcony!), but it was often excruciatingly slow or didn't work at all--not that I'm complaining; I was grateful to have any connection with the internet. (This is one reason we didn't blog very much, and emails were kept simple and to a minimum.)
If you're planning to travel to Eastern Europe, please give Budapest a consideration. It's a wonderful city with a lot of old-world charm, and if you stay off the tourist track, it is amazingly affordable. In a few years, after all the restoration is complete, this will no doubt be a very desired tourist attraction. Come and check it out while it's still a secret!
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