Originally, we were going to rent an apartment here for a month, like the rest of the countries we were visiting, but then a friend of Allan's suggested we stay in various B&B's for a night or two, and travel along the western and southern coasts. So while in India, we looked online for B&B's in Ireland, and we liked the picture of this place called Coxtown Manor, which was just outside of a town called Donegal. Sounded good to us, and from what we could tell, it was in the northwest section of Ireland. Perfect for a couple of northwesterners from America! Upon our arrival in Dublin, the very nice and helpful Enterprise Car Rental agent, Alan, informed us that Donegal was on the other side of the country, a four hour drive away. And that's exactly how long it took us to get there. It was a cool, cloudy afternoon--the perfect weather for driving in Ireland. The scenery was just as I expected it it to be: green and rustically gorgeous. Everywhere you looked was a post card photo just waiting to be taken.
The driveway to Coxtown Manor curved through a pasture with a large, beautiful red-leafed tree commanding center stage. Several sheep were munching on grass, and a few were sleeping under the tree. It couldn't have been more storybook perfect, and the sight of Coxtown Manor completed the picture. It was an elegant and refined Georgian Manor, simple and inviting. I felt like I was in a "Merchant Ivory" film, and Coxtown Manor was a little vacation house that Allan and I retreated to.
We were greeted by Eduard, the owner and host, and he told us that he had upgraded our room (for free) to a room in the main house itself. (We had booked the less expensive but equally charming Cottage Suite behind the main house, which was 350 years old--an old coach house Eduard had restored. The main house was about half that old.) Our room was large with high ceilings, and windows that looked out to the lovely countryside.
We even had a fireplace, filled with bog, ready to light. The bathroom looked brand new, with a huge tub and a double shower head. I knew I was going to really enjoy our 3 nights here.We asked Eduard if he could recommend a nearby restaurant for us to eat dinner, and he suggested Castle Restaurant & Bar in Donegal. "The only pub in town that serves good food." Eduard is a chef who is originally from Belgium, and he used to run a restaurant out of the B&B. But last fall he closed that part of his business, partly because it was too much work, and partly because the financial crisis had caused a drop in business. He's owned Coxtown Manor for 10 years. Previous to that, the house had been empty for six years, and had been a single family home before that--with the same family owning it since 1750! It was clear that he had put a lot of work and love into this place, and we were so happy to be experiencing the result of it. When he first opened the B&B, he lived in the main house himself, but felt like he never got a break. So he restored the old chapel behind the manor house, and currently lives there.
We drove back to Donegal's town center, and easily found Castle Restaurant just off the main square. It was housed in a beautiful old stone building, and looked like the perfect place for us to eat our first Irish meal.
But the only vegetarian item on the menu was quiche--here we were trying to act all macho in this Irish pub, and yet we ended up ordering quiche! Not only that, but since we don't drink, we ordered water rather than Guinness. So much for wanting to blend in with the locals...Our quiche was served with a delicious salad and an enormous helping of excellent french fries. To my shock, Allan actually ate every single fry on his plate. Normally, he would not even eat one, but as in India, China, and Japan, Allan was embracing the food culture of this new country, and he whole heartedly enjoyed each and every fry. (It goes without saying that I totally enjoyed them, since french fries are one of my favorite foods, right behind potato chips. Isn't the potato wonderful??)We left the pub at around 10 pm, and were shocked to find that it was still light outside. We walked around the perimeter of the town square, taking note of the various shops that were there, planning to check them out the following day. For a small town, it even had a health food store with a small deli in the back. Nice! We arrived back at Coxtown Manor, and quickly got ready for bed. It had been a long day. The mattress was so heavenly soft and comfortable, and the room was dead silent. This was going to be a great place to sleep.
The next morning, I couldn't wait to see what Eduard would serve us for breakfast. I was not disappointed. Fresh squeezed orange juice awaited us at our window view table. (The sheep outside were grazing on their breakfast of tall grass, looking about as content as a farm animal in the countryside could be. Fluffy, enormous white clouds billowed in the sky--clouds so varied in shape, color, and size that they were a captivating natural wonder all in themselves.)
Eduard asked if we'd like some eggs, and we ordered omelets. They arrived open face, sprinkled with diced tomato and green onion. Delicious and light, I ate the omelet with two slices of Irish Soda Bread, smeared with fresh butter. (Vegan eating is once again thrown out the window!) Surprisingly enough, it tasted just like the bread I make at home. (The recipe I use for Irish Soda Bread will be at the end of this post...) Next (yes, there is a next!) I ate a mix of yogurt, muesli, and fresh fruit. Delicious!
This would be my breakfast for the next three mornings, and with all the hospitality from Eduard, we could see why his B&B was so highly rated.Eduard told us that even though he has lived in Ireland for 10 years, he is still considered a "blow in", and locals, though they like him, are always asking him when he's going back to Belgium. Ireland is a tribal country, and we were told that if you move to another town--even if you are Irish--you will always be considered a "blow in". So far, everyone we've met in Ireland has been so very kind, engaging, and helpful...there is a rugged strength that I sense from the people here, which I imagine comes from the harsh and rocky landscape. As the saying goes, it's Manly yes, but I like it too! (Gosh, do they still make Irish Spring soap?)
I think I'm really going to enjoy Ireland, if our first few days are any indication. Sure, it's rainy and cool, but we're used to that in Portland. And yes, we're back to renting rooms with two twin beds since homosexuality is not really embraced, outside of Dublin and Belfast. But the country is beautiful to behold, and the people couldn't be more gracious. Now if only we can find a place that serves vegetarian Irish Stew...
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This recipe was developed by Judith and my good friend Milagro.
IRISH SODA BREAD
makes two loaves
4 cups wheat flour (or spelt)
1 cup white flour (or soy, barley, rice, spelt…)
1 cup oats
½ cup oat flour
1 Tbl baking soda
2 tsp salt
2 ½ cups buttermilk (for vegan version, use 2 ½ cups soy milk + 2 Tbl vinegar)
2 1/4 cups water
1 cup pecans, chopped (optional)
1 cup cranberries (optional)
2 Tbl sesame seeds
Preheat oven to 360 degrees. Spray 2 loaf pans with oil. Blend all dry ingredients (including nuts and fruit if desired) in a large bowl. Mix all wet ingredients in another bowl. Add wet ingredients to dry, and mix just until blended. (Do not over mix. Batter will be slightly runny.)
Quickly pour equally into pans and sprinkle with seeds, and place together on center rack in oven. (The loaves need to get into a hot oven as soon as the batter is mixed, otherwise, your loaves may come out flat.) Bake for 60-65 minutes, or until brown and an inserted toothpick comes out clean.
Cool on a rack for 10 minutes, then remove loaves from pan. Refrigerate loaves to avoid spoilage.
Freeze one loaf if desired. Excellent toasted!
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