Allan: Fez, Morocco, a Call to Inner Focus

Fez, Morocco is like no other place I have visited in the world. Yes, there are things to see as noted in our many guide books, but many can not be seen, literally, but can be seen figuratively. Mosques and most Medersas (Islamic theological colleges or schools) are closed to those not of the Muslim faith and I don’t think the city is about 'DK Eyewitness Travel’s Top 10' list of what to see. To me, Fez is about spirituality. Fez invites one into themselves, to ‘see’ oneself from a place of focus and is not about a tourist’s sight seeing list of must sees... Fez, like Morocco, is a place to be felt. Felt through experience, experienced with time to fully understand, like walking the labyrinth maze of the Medina (the old city) hidden behind once fortressed walls for protection. It’s 'streets' are not for cars, as many of them are no wider than a few feet, and are filled with those that make the Medina their home, along with the few tourists that stray from the main Moroccan tourist destinations like Marrakesh, Casablanca and coastal resorts. This is in part why we're in Fez, in addition, Fez embodies the tradition of medieval Islamic society; the original ancient capital of the country and believed to be the spiritual center for those of the Muslim faith (98% of the population). There are many visually stimulating sights in Fez; the Mosques, Medersas, Riads (Traditional Courtyard Houses) in the Medina, the Babs or Gates in which you enter the old city and, of course, the wonderful Zellij and hand chiseled tiles, carved plasterwork and painted tooled cedar ceilings that adorn many of them as well as other buildings. Life goes on here as it has for generations; family businesses, Dars or houses passed down from generation to generation, donkeys transporting goods through the Medina as motorized vehicles just can't manage the narrow, winding and often steep cobblestone paths. The traditional crafts of Morocco are well represented in Fez by artisan workshops and, of course, the leather tanneries that go back hundreds of years are still located in the Medina with their strong signature odor, not to be mistaken for anything else. Both David and I read through our guide book before arrival, but nothing prepares you for the positive, calm, neutral energy (and I would even say love) you feel when you're within the once fortified walls of the old city of Fez. The people are truly a gentle people, a kind and thoughtful people (even if they stop you on the street wanting you to come into their shop only to look, "you buy, you not buy, you a friend of mine"). People genuinely appreciate you visiting their city and will often ask what you think of Fez, followed by a greeting of “One thousand Welcomes”.

Morocco has offered me a unique look into myself, through a culture that engages you and also the rich and disciplined religious practice of Islam, praying five times a day, commencing with the first call of prayer at Dawn, about 5:00 AM.

Everything about Morocco says this part of the journey for me was about inward focus, a focus on stillness or spirituality, away from the 'distractions’ that prevent us from seeing us, the inner self. Moroccan culture literally reminds you that spiritual focus is and needs to be a purposeful practice, each and every day, all day long, hence the Prayer Call five times a day. The inward focus was further reinforced in the Medina of Fez where we were staying, the maze of narrow, twisted walled walkways allowing you only to focus on what was in front of you, nothing beyond. Taking this one step further, the Riad, the center focused house we were staying in had very few external windows (more than the average as we have three sides to the 'streets'), be it small ones with a large courtyard opening to the sky above…perhaps an analogy to what our intentions should be...inner focus and spirituality. In addition to that, respecting the culture and views on homosexuality, David and I had separate bedrooms which happened to be on different floors open to the courtyard, speaking to the focus on self. Taking it a step even further, David and I had various forms of gastronomical issues (no more on this topic), which centers the focus on the body and body awareness that we so often take for granted. Completing the focus, David and I started to listen to 'The New Earth' (of which we had both read before the trip) discussions between the author, Eckhart Tolle, and Oprah Winfrey, in which they discuss the concepts, chapter by chapter, all culminating in the understanding of self/ego and being present, present in the moment, and stillness or spirituality within. If this doesn't say "Allan, Morocco is about inward focus, a focus on stillness”, I don't know what does.

Of course, I don't believe this alignment is due to coincidence, its timing and placement in this trip is strategic. My overall self discovery on this journey has been insightful, one that would be difficult for me to articulate in one Blog Post, let alone many, but one that continues to influence what I think, who I am, who I am not, what I am to myself (my ego and inner self), who I am to others (including David), my spirituality…my reason for being, here on earth and in the context of what's greater than us all.

Morocco has provided me not only with direct, but subtle and even obscure references of my spirituality and path through physical parameters limiting my 'distractions' and providing me the context to practice being present, something I have not had this level of assistance with before. As a result, after several weeks, I started to see and understand the alignments and the instruction of focus, before thinking they were all separate and unique aspects associated with my time in Fez.

Each place I have the opportunity to visit on this trip offers me something, something more than an experience in a country or city, but offers insight into me, into Allan and the inner self.

Morocco has called me to inner focus, a time of being present, a time that is neither past nor future, but is. It is Morocco, Fez in particular, that is present, present in its way of life and spirituality. Fez has been the ultimate teacher for me, with very clear instruction that will continue to be heard, like the call to prayer, beyond the fortified walls of the Medina.