In my last post, I spoke to the warm fuzzies I felt for Fez. But it also had some edges--like the first night we arrived, and within minutes Allan and I were offered hashish, beer, and a prostitute. Oh, and the same guy also invited us to eat at his family's restaurant--he covered all the bases of tourist satisfaction! He was actually a very nice man, who even took some time to warn us of the pickpockets that are in the Medina, and gave us some tips on how to avoid trouble. (I checked my pockets after he left, and he was not just distracting us...) Throughout our stay, we were also asked by many young and handsome men if we wanted a Berber Massage. If we said no, they would become more specific, "Berber massage, argon oil, aphrodisiac..." We read in our guide book (and online) that this was typically an invitation for sex. But we wondered...was the guy offering himself for sex? What about homosexuality being taboo and illegal? And since the Muslim faith forbids the consumption of alcohol, what about all the beer and wine we were offered? I finally concluded that the Muslim faith--just like any faith--has a wide spectrum of followers. All religions seem to have three branches of members: the radical fundamentalists--which usually make everyone nervous; the average practitioners that go to church, and do their best; and the "non-active but still refer to themselves as" members who do not practice much of anything that their religion teaches--even if they still call themselves believers. Of all the Moroccans I met who talked about their religion, what I remember most was the Moroccan man who pointed to his heart and said, "This is the best religion." How great is that?
I will also remember the conversations I had with Abdel and Anas, two shopkeepers that we got to know. They worked at a leather shop, selling everything from shoes to handbags to coin purses. Each time we walked past their shop, Anas would run out and greet us, asking us to come inside their shop and look around, or even just sit down and chat. Unfortunately, they didn't really sell anything we wanted, but I did end up buying two coin purses just to show an effort. Anas would say cute little things to me like, "It's nice to be nice. It's nice to be important. It's important to be nice." or "Smile at the world, and the world smiles back." Often times he would speak in a low, hushed voice and would give me warnings about life in the Medina. He was so serious but also quite goofy...I really liked him. Abdel spoke much better English than Anas and had a wonderful sense of humor. He kept an English translation book by his side, and I could tell he was educated about America and news events in general. While he mostly kept to himself when we stopped by, one day we did get into a long conversation about religion, God, the Muslim faith, and even terrorism. For about an hour he told me the basics of Islam, and suggested I read the Koran. "It's all so simple, easy and clear!" Ironically, when I asked him if he prayed at the mosque each morning, he shamefully admitted that he does not, and that he is not a "good Muslim". Yet just the same, he is certain that the Muslim faith is the truth, and that if I were to read the Koran, I would feel the same way.
He was dismayed at how negatively Americans (and the world) portray Muslims, and he seemed to view Muslims as victims. He told me of many instances where Muslims were mistreated by Jews and Russians. He told me about some videos he watched on the Internet where some Russians slaughtered several Muslims. "Have you seen this video? What do you think of the Russians?" I told him I was unfamiliar with the video, or the details of what he was speaking about. "I regret seeing the video," he said, "I asked God, why does this happen? Why is there so much hatred in the world?" He looked intensely at me for a moment, and continued. "So far, God has not answered my question..." He told me that he also watched the execution of Daniel Pearl on the Internet, and that it gave him nightmares. He could not understand how a human being could do that to another human being. He asked me if I believed in God, and if I was a Christian. I told him that I consider myself "a bit of everything", not knowing how to describe Surat Shabd Yoga and Judith. I told him that I try to read and respect elements of all religions--to focus on what we have in common rather than where we are different....that all this arguing over who is right, who owns the truth and path to God...where does it get us? It's an argument without end. "But when people do violent things to you, what do you do?!" I started to tell him the old adage that 'peace starts with each person', but he cut me off to say that if Americans want peace, they will have to take the first step. "America is the greatest, most powerful country on the planet. But Bush wanted oil, and invaded Iraq to get it......" Our conversation continued for quite some time, and in the end, I could see how and why this subject is so volatile...and why each person is going to have their own set of opinions and beliefs around it. I thought of the contrasting conversations I had in Egypt with Moses and Tita...but Abdel surely represents how many Muslims feel. But rather than engage in a debate, I just tried to relax and be present with him, to hear what he had to say, and to try and understand how and why he feels the way he does. When I said goodbye, I thanked him, and said I hoped that all people would work toward opening their hearts and minds, and move forward with forgiveness and kindness...that we first have to be responsible for our own peace, and that eventually, this is the only way we will change the hatred and violence we currently see...Oh, that Pollyanna movie really did a number on me!
A few days later I returned to say goodbye to the guys and take their picture. (Abdel is standing on the left, and Anas is standing on the right. Their friend, also named Abdel, is seated.)
I will also remember the conversations I had with Abdel and Anas, two shopkeepers that we got to know. They worked at a leather shop, selling everything from shoes to handbags to coin purses. Each time we walked past their shop, Anas would run out and greet us, asking us to come inside their shop and look around, or even just sit down and chat. Unfortunately, they didn't really sell anything we wanted, but I did end up buying two coin purses just to show an effort. Anas would say cute little things to me like, "It's nice to be nice. It's nice to be important. It's important to be nice." or "Smile at the world, and the world smiles back." Often times he would speak in a low, hushed voice and would give me warnings about life in the Medina. He was so serious but also quite goofy...I really liked him. Abdel spoke much better English than Anas and had a wonderful sense of humor. He kept an English translation book by his side, and I could tell he was educated about America and news events in general. While he mostly kept to himself when we stopped by, one day we did get into a long conversation about religion, God, the Muslim faith, and even terrorism. For about an hour he told me the basics of Islam, and suggested I read the Koran. "It's all so simple, easy and clear!" Ironically, when I asked him if he prayed at the mosque each morning, he shamefully admitted that he does not, and that he is not a "good Muslim". Yet just the same, he is certain that the Muslim faith is the truth, and that if I were to read the Koran, I would feel the same way.
He was dismayed at how negatively Americans (and the world) portray Muslims, and he seemed to view Muslims as victims. He told me of many instances where Muslims were mistreated by Jews and Russians. He told me about some videos he watched on the Internet where some Russians slaughtered several Muslims. "Have you seen this video? What do you think of the Russians?" I told him I was unfamiliar with the video, or the details of what he was speaking about. "I regret seeing the video," he said, "I asked God, why does this happen? Why is there so much hatred in the world?" He looked intensely at me for a moment, and continued. "So far, God has not answered my question..." He told me that he also watched the execution of Daniel Pearl on the Internet, and that it gave him nightmares. He could not understand how a human being could do that to another human being. He asked me if I believed in God, and if I was a Christian. I told him that I consider myself "a bit of everything", not knowing how to describe Surat Shabd Yoga and Judith. I told him that I try to read and respect elements of all religions--to focus on what we have in common rather than where we are different....that all this arguing over who is right, who owns the truth and path to God...where does it get us? It's an argument without end. "But when people do violent things to you, what do you do?!" I started to tell him the old adage that 'peace starts with each person', but he cut me off to say that if Americans want peace, they will have to take the first step. "America is the greatest, most powerful country on the planet. But Bush wanted oil, and invaded Iraq to get it......" Our conversation continued for quite some time, and in the end, I could see how and why this subject is so volatile...and why each person is going to have their own set of opinions and beliefs around it. I thought of the contrasting conversations I had in Egypt with Moses and Tita...but Abdel surely represents how many Muslims feel. But rather than engage in a debate, I just tried to relax and be present with him, to hear what he had to say, and to try and understand how and why he feels the way he does. When I said goodbye, I thanked him, and said I hoped that all people would work toward opening their hearts and minds, and move forward with forgiveness and kindness...that we first have to be responsible for our own peace, and that eventually, this is the only way we will change the hatred and violence we currently see...Oh, that Pollyanna movie really did a number on me!
A few days later I returned to say goodbye to the guys and take their picture. (Abdel is standing on the left, and Anas is standing on the right. Their friend, also named Abdel, is seated.)
Abdel seemed relaxed and happy, his tone and body language so different from the last time we talked. He wished me well, and said he hoped I would return to Fez sometime...maybe even move to Morocco, buy a riad, and start my own business. He gave me his business card, which contained his email address and asked me to keep in touch. He is getting married next year, and is excited for his future. I asked Anas if he was married, and he shook his head and said, "No. Women just put couscous in your eyes! And throw couscous around the house!" I wasn't quite sure what that meant, so I just smiled and bid farewell.And what about women? We rarely saw a woman working in a shop, or working in the souks. Even men did the sewing of beautiful women's clothing and the intricate embroidery on tablecloths. When we passed cafes, pretty much the only patrons were men. Where were all the women? What did they do all day? If we did see women, they were usually walking in the Medina, doing shopping or tending children, or they would be on the rooftop doing laundry. Sure, I did see some women working in shops, and the chocolate shop we went to was owned by a woman....but this appeard to be atypical. On a few rare occasions I saw a woman walking with another man, but typically, men hung with men, and women hung with women. One guy told me that "in Morocco, you do not have women friends." Many of the women wore a head scarf (which we were told is optional, not required) and a jaballa (a hooded caftan that both men and women wear, typically made of wool), but occasionally a woman would be dressed just like any girl in the US. One day I saw a very young gal wearing high heels, tight jeans, and a sheer blouse. She had gorgeous hair, and as she walked through the Medina, I wondered how the "covered" women felt about her? What is it like in this culture to be a young woman? Unfortunately, aside from our cooking teacher Layla, I never got the chance to talk to a woman and find out. That is one disappointment I have about Fez...But I have a feeling that the younger generation are changing things. One day Allan and I were walking in town when school got out, and the younger crowd was much more mixed together, and most all of them were dressed in hip, fashionable clothing.
To see Morocco from another angle, we had lunch with David, the owner of the riad we stayed at. David is from Ohio, but has lived in Morocco for the past 14 years. As we drove past a huge construction site, he said that $85 million of US taxpayer money is being spent to build an undecided project in Fez. There is a contest right now to determine what to build. Some locals are angry, saying the money should be spent on rebuilding the infrastructure of the Medina. At any rate, why did the US give Morocco all that money? Because during the Bush years, we gave Morocco money in exchange for torturing suspected terrorists since we couldn't torture them on American soil. Interesting. And the GOP have issues with how Obama spends money?? Oh, don't get me started.....
Anyway, it was great to ask David all sorts of questions about life in the Medina. He also took us to his new home, which he is also restoring. It was HUGE, and he is thinking of turning it into a B&B as well. Here's a picture of David and Allan in his "kitchen", or what will be his kitchen someday...the two of them loved talking about restoration!
He gave us a list of things to see and do around Fez, and also made some suggestions for day trips. On our own, we went to the Batha Museum and wandered a bit around the shopping areas of the Medina, but since it was often hard to find our way around, we decided to hire a guide for two days. Hafid made the arrangements, and set us up with Ahmed, who appeared to be about 40, had an extremely calming nature about him, and spoke in a soft, even tone.
One day he took us to the tannery, which I wasn't totally sure I even wanted to see. We had read so much about the smell of the place, but upon arrival, they gave us a sprig of mint to hold to our nose. Ingenious! It completely neutralized the strong odor of the tannery. Rather than attempt to describe it, here are a few pictures. We were told that all the colors were derived from natural sources, like mint for green, cobalt for blue, henna for orange, and saffron for yellow...
Ahmed also took us to the Jewish Quarter, where we toured this Jewish Synagogue,
the Souks to do some shopping, and also took us to the Fondouk el-Nejjarine, which was originally a market that included lodging for tradespeople. This Fondouk was recently restored, and is now a Wood Museum, which was very beautiful.
And we toured the Bou Inania Medersa. I couldn't get over the intricate geometry of the zellij tiles! Such amazing tile work is all over Fez!
And if I stared at it long enough, I felt like I went all dizzy in my head...rather Twilight Zoneish. No wonder it is referred to as Sacred Geometry...stare at the center of this for awhile, and see what happens!
In addition to seeing several tourist attractions, Ahmed took us to a great antique shop, and to a rug making shop. And yes, a jaballa shop where I broke down and bought a jaballa. Just what I need, another costume! But really, it is fabulously warm and comfortable, and I look forward to lounging around the house in it all day. Yes, I am turning into my mother.
Ahmed also talked about many things as we walked the Medina. The history of Fez, the way of life, the future. He spoke of religion, faith, and politics--"taboo" subjects I love to talk about! Here are a few statements that stuck with me: "The problems in the middle east aren't about Jews and Muslims; we have lived together in peace for centuries. It is a political problem, and politicians are trying to make it a religious problem."........"Morocco teaches science right along with religion, and the arts. This allows for wider knowledge and human rights. In other Muslim countries, that is not the case."........"Terrorists are not acting like true Muslims. Such problems occur when living conditions are such that a person loses sight of their religion, and is acting out in anger, not through religious directive. Terrorism hurts Muslims because we are all judged accordingly."........"Forgiveness is one of the most important acts in the Muslim faith. A man that is honest and of service will go to heaven faster than a dishonest man that prays in the mosque everyday."........When we talked about America, he was so happy to speak about Obama. "Electing Obama was an advancement in humanity. It made a statement to the world about equality, that people in America really are equal. It was an example for the rest of the world to follow." Beautifully put, Ahmed!Allan hired a taxi for our day trips outside of Fez, which consisted of a visit to: the Roman ruins of Volubilis with its spectacular mosaic tiles;
One of the top five holy cities, Moulay Idriss, which contains the tomb of it's founder, a decendent of the Prophet Muhammad;
The town of Meknes, which included a visit to the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail;
and a stop at one of the lakes nearby which is a popular spot for Moroccans to visit in the summer. Two other neaby lakes dried up in the past 10 years...global warming?
We had lunch in Ifrane, which was a town built by the French during their occupation--er, during the "protectorate" years. Here's a picture of the "Lion Monument" paying respect to the lions that used to roam the area. But the Romans took them all to fight gladiators...
and we also got to feed some monkeys in the forest!
Many more pictures of these events can be found on our Picasa photo gallery by clicking here. We also try to include captions on the photos so that you'll have an idea of what you are seeing.SILENCE OF THE LAMBS
On our last day in Fez, it just happened to be the holy celebration day called Aid el Kebhir. This day is sort of like Christmas for Moroccans, and actually all Muslims throughout the world. This holiday is linked to the story of Abraham, who was told by God to sacrifice his son, Issac (Genesis 22, I believe.) When Abraham obeyed, and went to slay his son, God stopped Abraham, and told him to sacrifice a lamb instead.....So to re-enact this act of obedience, each Muslim family in Morocco is expected to purchase a lamb, and "sacrifice" it between 10:00 and 12:00 noon on the holy day. (We were told that this is more of a Moroccan thing, and that Muslims outside of Morocco merely have to eat lamb.) After the slaughter, the lamb is cooked and eaten over the next 3-4 days by family and friends alike. (Even the head!) For our last week in Fez, we saw hundreds of sheep being carted or literally carried into the Medina, and into families homes. All around our riad, we could hear the bleeting of the sheep all day long... On November 28, the day of Aid, we packed our bags and left our riad by 9:00am. As we wheeled our bags through the Medina, all shops were closed. For us, a feeling of foreboding filled the air, but for the few Moroccans we saw on the street, they looked happy and festive...I mean, it was their holiday--or Holy Day, and we were told that all lambs slaughtered go directly to heaven for their sacrifice--all 5.5 million of them in Morocco alone. Anyway, we made it to the train station without seeing any pools of blood, but we did see some gruesome sights from the window of our train as we passed through a few towns....I'll spare you the details. We kept on telling ourselves that it was "just like turkey on Thanksgiving", but it just seemed so much worse. But on the other hand, I had to respect the Muslims for participating in the entire process. I wondered how many families would be having a vegetarian Thanksgiving if they had to kill and skin old Mr. Turkey themselves?
Oh, aren't holiday traditions wonderful??
Even with the Aid holiday, leaving Fez was hard. I had such a wonderful time, even if a week of it was spent rather intimately with a toilet...not to mention body chills, fever, and all that fun stuff. Anyway, as we sat on the train to Marrakesh, I looked out the window at the changing scenery. At one train stop, in the distance I could see a group of men who were walking together in the desert. All of them wore white jaballas except for one man in dark green. It was sunset, and the setting sun illuminated the thin cloth of their jaballas. As they walked, the movement of their legs caused this illumination to flicker, making them appear to be like candles moving across the barren landscape. I felt such peace coming from these men, a contentment...a quiet joy. The image was surreal and beautiful, and for that moment, everything seemed timeless. I found myself wishing I were walking with them, not knowing where they were coming from, or where they were going. I just wanted to be caught in that peace, in that moment of tranquility....Perhaps I saw peace in those men because I wanted to. And perhaps they would see peace in me if they wanted to. Perhaps we see in others what we feel in ourselves. Who knows? I'm not sure I could sell this as a military option, but it's a good thing to practice individually. As Gandhi said, We must be the change we wish to see in the world. And as the song goes, Let there be peace on earth, and let it begin with me. It reminded me of what Anas had said to me: "Smile at the world, and the world smiles back." I looked over at Allan and smiled. He smiled back. I'm off to a good start. Thank you Allan. Thank you Fez.
Allan and I on a hill above the Medina of Fez.
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